High Quality Bourbon Outside Kentucky?
Does high quality bourbon exist outside of Kentucky? I sure think so!
I think that many could easily answer this question with a resounding “YES”, but I have met and had discussions with people who will argue vehemently that “Bourbon” does not exist outside of Kentucky, period. To this, I offer you a glimpse into the burgeoning world of American craft bourbon whiskey. One run by families, friends, passionate craftspeople and entrepreneurs filled with hope and grit all across this nation.
Old 55 Distillery
The first stop is one where this writer nearly collided with Steve Akley and the #ABVNetwork but I missed them by about a week. Close call! But in reality, I had been waiting weeks if not months for my visit to Old 55 Distillery in Newtown, Indiana. The crew had just been there the week before picking a barrel, which you can read all about here. But I was wanting to visit local distilleries and support them as best as I could. This one just happened to be a four-hour dive across state lines and had to wait for a crazy schedule to open up. Jason and the rest of the family were more than happy to host us.
The nickel tour is that Jason Fruits along with the incredible support of his family started a craft distillery in an old schoolhouse building along Old Highway 55. If I recall correctly, his grandparents went to school in the very building?! It is here that they make gold, silver, and bronze medal winning bourbon and single malt whiskey. In fact, as of late they seem to just be piling the awards on. My non bourbon-drinking companion and lovely fiancé (the same person) who also had a few samples was a huge fan as well! Not only was my mediocrely-trained palate entertained, but a non-bourbon drinker had some and was blown away by how delicious it was. That would explain all the international awards. When you visit you’ll likely be greeted by a member of the family when you walk into the tasting room and Maddie the sheep dog is probably watching the game. Then you’ll be escorted out back to see where the magic happens. Jason takes grains from his own family farm and other locally produced grains to mill and mash his own bills. Then, on the incredibly well-planned distilling system he starts making whiskey. The interesting thing about his method is that he is tasting his way deep into the heart cuts and then getting out of the pull before any tails show up. Pulling only the finest cuts possible from his distillate and producing a bourbon that I have hidden a case of in my house, so I don’t sit down and drink it one bottle after the next! So, if you ever find yourself meandering down an old highway along the corn fields of Newtown Indiana, be sure to point yourself towards Old 55 and tell Jason, the family and Maddie the dog that I sent you. Now let’s head back across the border into Wisconsin where I currently reside to visit another family that’s been hard at work.
J. Henry & Sons
Wisconsin has an increasing number of craft distilleries as well that wouldn’t you know, are in fact producing high quality spirits outside of KY. Among nearly 40 (Four Zero!) in the state, I had the honor of visiting the growing J. Henry & Sons Bourbon. Yet another family love affair with craft bourbon that has a unique history of American farmers turning grains and grit into high quality spirits. When deciding to produce bourbon they selected an heirloom red corn developed at the University of Wisconsin which had sat in a seed vault for many, many years. After working out a deal to bring this species back to life for their seed and grain business as well for making bourbon, they had their seed order on the way. Expecting at least a 50lb bag or more of these heirloom seeds, they were surprised when a manilla envelope showed up with a handful of seeds. Work began and after a few years of propagating the corn they were ready to use it along with their own wheat and rye to distill what is almost an Estate Bottled in Bond bourbon. I say almost because their grains are sent to another small Wisconsin distiller to mash, distill and barrel. Once done, it’s sent back to Dane, Wisconsin to rest no less than five years in their farm style rick houses. There, keepers of the spirit like Bryce Krull and the Henry family provide tours, tastings and of course bottles that have won so many awards you can’t keep track! And if you find yourself looking for something to do on Black Friday, they have an annual release of their cask strength 5-9-year bourbon that you’re sure to love.
J Henry’s humble beginnings are like many farmers across the nation. When the farm crisis hit in the 80s, they decided to double down and work their tails off to keep it going instead of losing their family history and the farm, too. That of course paid off in the long run and the same kind of care came to play when Joe decided he was going to make bourbon. Not wanting to source spirits in the beginning to get bottles out the door, they got to work filing and ricking barrels and not until after the first five years had slowly passed, were they ready to release their bourbon to the world. And so, they did! The next picture is a testament to their hard work and dedication, and I can’t wait to visit again.
Now, I know I said there were nearly 40 craft distillers in Wisconsin and that’s true, but I am only one man and can only visit so many places. So now is the part of this story where I implore you to open your mind and when you do visit, to open your wallet because every single one of these (ok, 99%) of these small businesses is run by passionate, skilled and incredibly hospitable people that have made my time in bourbon so much better. The reality is that bourbon is not just something made in Kentucky by a massive distiller and workforce, but it also in the hearts, minds and spirits of hard-working women and men across this nation. America’s native spirit is just that and I hope the next time you’re looking for a whiskey, you’ll not be afraid to visit the “American Whiskey” aisle to find and support your local distiller. I can assure you, buying a bottle from someone down the street is always good and chances are you just might find something you love.
